12. Nov 9th. Touring Luang Prabang on foot.
Today’s breakfasts was more or less a buffet, with eggs the only item that you needed to order. It was all very good. I got an espresso (via an automated machine), toast, fruit and juice to add to my egg order.
Phonsy met us at the front of the hotel and started the tour. The first things he talked about was the UNESCO heritage designation for town of Luang Prabang. The architecture shows as a fusion of traditional Laos buildings and those that have a French colonial style.
Phonsy points out several buildings that have been designated heritage buildings. These cannot be torn down and there are restrictions for doing any renovations.
Vat Xieng Mouane
Huean Chan Historical House Museum.
Next stop was the National Museum. The former Royal Palace, built in 1904 by Kin Siavong Vong, was turned into a museum sometime after 1975 when the monarchy was devolved. The architecture is a mix of Lao and French styles. No interior photography was permitted, so you’ll have to take my word on the museum. When you first enter the entrance room was used to welcome dignitaries. There were two large ornate bed sized sitting ottomans with deep red cushions and gold leaf carved sides. These were facing each other and were used by the king to meet other dignitaries who sat on the other chair. Cantered to the rear of these ottoman chairs was a raised low backed chair in the same red and gold colour scheme. This chair was used by the highest reigning monk whose stature in Laos was indicated by the fact that he sat higher than the king.
The next room (and it was big) had wall murals of traditional Lao lifestyles. These were painted in 1930 by a french artist.
One of the rooms contained Phra Bang, a Buddha statue about 3 feet high and was cast around 1359. It is arguably the most revered Buddha in Laos and is the namesake for the city. The Buddha is in a standing position with forward facing palms.
The former Royal Palace
The royal palace building also had furnished rooms as they would have been during that monarchy period. The monarchy was officially dissolved in 1975 and hold many display cases of their various treasures and gifts from other countries. In one of the display cases was a plate that Canada had given, most certainly made by a Canadian artist, but there was nothing on the display card and I couldn’t see the back of the plate.
Also on the grounds was a giant statue of the King Srisavong Vong that was erected in 1976 facing the palace. The statue was made in Russia in 1975 and its easy to see that Russian influence in how that statue looks. Behind him was a meeting halls and theatre building as the Royals were a big patron of the arts.
Wat May Souvannapoumaram
Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre
This was a museum that described all the ethnic groups in Laos and showed the traditional arts, particularly music and textiles. It was really informative. I’d love to come back and take some weaving courses,,,
We had lunch at the Mekong River Hotel. I was very disappointed with my noodle soup. When you’re paying a premium price of $3.00 Cdn equivalent for your meal you would expect a much better noodle soup than what I got. However, I guess you’re paying for the view. We had a terrace table right where the Nam Khan river joins with the larger Mekong River.
Wat Khili. Known as the Temple of the Golden Mountain
On the property of Wat Khili is a library that houses the Buddhist Archives. It’s an historic photographic exhibition of Buddhist heritage and imagery. The pictures were really interesting. I didn’t know there were female Buddhas. Now I do.
Vat Xieng Thong
Perhaps the most photographed of all the temples in Luang Prabang, it is a large complex with several buildings.
Wat Visoun (the Watermelon Temple)
Wat Aham
We got the opportunity to view monks and novices in their daily prayers. I’m not sure if I was permitted to film but I did.
On our way to the next place, we dropped into a paper making place. There was a quick (and I mean quick) explanation of how mulberry tree bark is made into paper. The softened mush is placed on a giant sieve. On this sheet, she is adding flowers petals for the pattern. The last part was the store full of paper stuff. I looked around but didn’t find anything that interested me, but Judith managed to find something.
Baci Ceremony. A Baci ceremony is supposed to call escaped spirits back to your body. It’s a tradition that many Lao people practice, especially before major events such as weddings, births or travel. The ceremony is lead by an older member of the family or village group and involves gently tying cotton cords around your wrists to symbolize friendship, good health and good luck on your journey ahead.
It was a fun ceremony and was followed by a sip of rice wine (I tasted it; Judith chugged it) and some snacks.
All 6 of the elders tied cotton cords around each wrist. The cords are supposed to stay on for a minimum of 3 days.
Judith was fascinated by one of the women elders. She was 89 years old and appeared in very good heath.
She posed for a picture.
We finished our walking tour and were dropped off back at the hotel. We decided to do some fine dining at nearby l’Elephant Restaurant. Here are the dishes for all you foodies out there. A mushroom tortellini and pan seared fish.
And then off to bed because it’s an early rise… like be ready at 4:30 am
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