3. Oct 31th. Signapore Highlights
Today was fun because it involved lots of food. We both had great sleeps because we had stayed up to get in sync with the local time (Singapore is 15 hours ahead of Vancouver). Breakfast was included in our stay so we headed downstairs to enjoy a leisurely breakfast. We did note an odd rule in the breakfast menu — both coffee and tea were limited to one cup per breakfast. That seemed odd to us because neither of these are high cost items so limiting to one cup didn’t seem like there was significant savings to be made. My coffee cup was small, maybe about 6 oz. (175 ml for you metric types). The cup was chunky and the handle was too small to grip with one hand — so sipping was a two handed exercise. Other than those two oddities, breakfast mushroom omelette for me and scrambled eggs for Judith were fine. In retrospect though, we should have skipped breakfast because our tour was to Tiong Bahru Market — a combination of a traditional wet market where fresh meat, seafood and produce are sold and a hawker centre where food stalls offer up local dishes.
After breakfast we met up with our guide Andrew. He told us he was a former currency floor trader but had to find a new vocation when the Singapore Exchange changed over to electronic trading. All tourist guides undergo a six month training and must pass a rigorous exam. Of the 34 people who took the training in his class, only 9 passed the exam. Our driver Raheem (He told us his name was Abraham on day one because he says there are many people who can’t pronounce Raheem) also had to pass a rigorous exam. The success rate is also very low.
The Scarlet Hotel where we’re staying in Singapore was originally built as a 4 storey store front with upper level residential units in 1868. It became a hotel in 1988 and around 1995 was sold and extensively upgraded into a 37 unit top grade boutique hotel. It has a heritage designation building so no exterior changes can be made to the exterior. It is located in the Chinatown district, so shopping and dining are well within walking distance.
The city isn’t very large; it’s basically one large island measuring about 50 km east to west and 27 km north to south. Since independence in 1965, 25% of the island now consists of reclaimed land from surrounding water. The city is the 3rd most densely populated in the world behind the city states of Macau and Monaco. Home ownership is around 90% in Singapore as a result of government built housing that is sold to residents at an affordable price and grants provided to lower income applicants. Owners can resell on the private resale market after the first 5 years of ownership. The government also owns and maintains a large number of rental units within these government built buildings which are provided to the public. Some of these units are heavily subsidized to accommodate the homeless or disabled or others that cannot afford the rent.
The architecture is stunning. While there are many typical rectangular box style buildings, there are a significant amount of spectacular out of the box designs. My picture of the Marina Bay Sands with the boat shaped observation deck and infinity pool didn’t turn out so well, you can view it and a few other iconic buildings here: 10 Famous Buildings in Singapore. And there is so much lush greenery everywhere in the city; it really softens the streetscape. Because there are many actions that are against the law (littering, spitting, gum chewing, etc) and enforced by a combination of fines and corporal punishment, the city is incredibly clean.
We took a tour through pre-war housing units at Tiong Bahru that have a heritage designation. These units were some of the first government built units and are still standing today. Considered to be the most modern buildings in their time, the units were built with plenty of natural light, “grassed” yards and play spaces and balconies. The units can reach a few million in value.
Housing units at Tiong Bahru.
After the short walk through the housing units, we went into the Tiong Bahru Market. Built overtop of a former cemetery in 1950, the Tiong Bahru Market building was constructed to provide a covered space for the wet market and food carts operating in the area. We first toured through the wet market is located on the street level and is filled with many stalls selling all types of meat, seafood, produce, flowers, clothing, trinkets, etc. Monday is a day where many of the vendors take a day of rest, so over half of the stalls were closed. We did look at many stalls, with particular interest in one selling goods that are burned as an offering to the goods. Besides incense, there were many paper and cardboard items to provide richness in their afterlife including designer handbags, a Rolls Royce car, and gold bars.
The hawker market was upstairs. Hawkers that formerly operated out of wheeled carts could now operate out of units that allowed refrigeration, running water, cooking facilities, sanitary amenities and tables where customers could eat. The units are subsidized. Food is very inexpensive. I ordered a noodle dish (Char Kway Teow) reminiscent of chow fun made with wide rice noodles (cost ~$3 Cdn) and had some soy milk bubble tea ($1.60 Cdn equivalent).
Char Kway Teow
Wide rice noodles with plenty of bean sprouts, Chinese sausage and fish cake. Apparently I could have asked for extra fried pork fat…
Judith had a vegetarian dish from an South Asian food stall and had it with iced tea which she said was the best she had ever had. We followed that up with Popiah, a fresh (unfried) spring roll, then a soft bean curd desert flavoured with malt sugar and finally finished with a freshly pressed cane sugar drink.
Despite leaving most of the food uneaten, we were pretty stuffed. The tray return station had a section for Halal trays and a section for non Halal trays. We left the building to meet our driver and were happy to be taken back to the hotel where I spent the next while lying on my bed and groaning.
Judith wanted to go to Raffles Hotel to re-experience her youth by drinking a Singapore Sling. This was a popular drink during the late 70’s when we were in prime drinking age. Raffles is a pretty swank hotel and the Sling was invented there in 1915. Judith wanted to take a taxi there because she didn’t want to arrive all sweaty given the 30 degree weather. We were planning to walk back, but the desk clerk convinced us to take a taxi back to our hotel despite our google map indicating it was only a 30 minute walk. It was amusing how she mimiced a drunk Judith walking home.
We arrived at Raffles and the swankiness did not disappoint. It’s a beautiful and elegant looking hotel. There are smartly uniformed Sikh doorman whose main roles seemed to be escorting people in and out of vehicles and being photographed.
Front of Raffles Hotel. If you zoom into the picture you will see Judith talking to one of the Sikh Doormen.
We followed the signs to the Long Bar located at the rear of the complex and waited in a short line up to get in. When we’re seated I notice we’re walking over peanut shells that are strewn all over the floor. The peanuts are the Chinese style that you would get buying the “Farmer Brand” brand available in Chinese grocery stores. Judith orders the original Sling (~$37 Cdn) and I opt for the “Teatotaller” Sling (~$16). It’s clearly a big money maker for the hotel, but we had a great time people watching and savouring our drinks.
The selfie at Long Bar with our drinks and peanut supply.
A picture of why it’s called Long Bar. The ceiling fans are large leaf shaped made from rattan. The leaves were attached to a rope attached to an electric motor that moved the leaves back and forth.
One of the inner courtyards at Raffles. The trees reached the third storey.
After returning to the hotel and chilling for a while we went back out to the Chinese Street Market for a little dinner. We found a busy street restaurant filled with tourists so it was clear there would be food that Judith could eat and not upset her sensitive digestive system. We ended up sharing a dish of seafood fried rice. Our iced tea was refreshingly tangy, lacking the volume of sugar that you normally find.
A sign at the restaurant we had dinner at. I had no idea what it stood for, but fortunately Judith knew. She advised that PDA is not illegal, but it is very frowned upon in Singapore. Answer below!
One of the karaoke band members playing in the square at the Chinese Street Market on our way to dinner. He’s playing an instrument that if you squinted enough, you might think he could fit in a bluegrass band.
Back at the hotel there is a egg custard tart waiting for me that I purchased earlier at Tong Heng Confectionery the oldest bakery in Singapore. It began operations in 1935 and now is run by a 4th generation descendant. Judith tries a small portion and gives it a thumbs up. I devour the rest.
A stock photo of the Tong Heng egg custard. Unfortunately mine was eaten before I thought to take a picture. Tong Heng bakery is famous for the diamond shape of it’s egg custard.
We’re off tomorrow morning leaving the hotel at 8:30 to catch a flight to Vientiane, Laos.
The sign stands for No Public Displays of Affection.
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