10. Nov 7th. Trekking to Tham Kang Cave and Tad Mok Waterfall.

Breakfast was on the covered terrace overlooking the river.  We were the only ones there.  I’m not sure where all the tourist are, but there seems to be lots of excess capacity in these places we’re staying at.  

Our own dining space. 

I was offered an egg and pancake breakfast and coffee. A plate of fruit was dropped off at the table with banana, dragon fruit and apple.  When my order came, the pancake was really a crepe and there wasn’t any syrup.  It was a bit soggy, so I skipped it as well as the “sausages” that are really hot dogs.  The toast was great so I used that to soak up the egg on my plate.  The coffee was also great with a lovely crema.

Breakfast view.  There’s a low cloud that blankets all the hilltops. 

We got ready for the day and met Phonsy promptly at 8:30am.  It’s a cool day with a low lying cloud that covers the tops of the surrounding hills.  I know it will burn off and the day will become much warmer. 

We walk across the bridge over Nam Ou and turn left onto a street that has lots of young tourists siting in restaurants.  There are lots of tour operators and guesthouses lining the street.  We turn left down the next street and proceed down the hill towards the river.  At the river there is a set of concrete steps going down to the river’s edge to a floating dock made of plastic blocks fastened together.  At the dock waiting for us is one of the typical river water craft that carries about 6-8 people with room for cargo.  We board it to get to the town of Muang Ngoi, about an hour upstream.  

Down the steps to board the boat.

The ride is a lot of fun.  Besides the young captain, we are the only ones on board. Our route passes under the bridge we just walked across and past our hotel.  We try to figure out which one of the cabins is Number 10, the one we’re staying in.  

 

The river is flanked by limestone hills similar to the River Li in Guilin, China and reminds me of the trip I took with my Mom, and my sisters Syl and Cynth back in 1987.  

Fun ride on the river

There is lots of activity and sights on the the river’s edge.  Water buffalo, cows, farming, mandarin orange trees and many boats going by carrying other passengers and cargo.  The boat arrives at Muang Ngoi and we disembark onto a long set up stairs up the steep bank.  

Phonsy knows many people here because of his guiding, but he hasn’t been here for the past 3 years so there are many people who want to say hello.  It’s nice to see him interact with with others.  He does have an infectious smile and people seem to like him a lot.

We proceed sleight up the hill and through the village.  By the time we arrive, the low lying cloud has burned off and the sun is quickly heating up the ground. The villagers sitting around on the main road (it’s a dirt road) seem to be just hanging around watching the world go by.  I’m sure they talk about the tourists that come through and we’re no exception because they’re talking and looking at us.  Judith has forgotten her hat and thought she would like to have one.  Somehow the idea of renting one came about and a deal was struck with one of the local villagers to rent the one on her head for 20,000 kip.  

Trying on the new hat.

We walked the road to the cave.  Phonsy said it was previously a nice trail but that changed a few years ago when it was used for carrying goods to a construction project.  The day has quickly changed from cool to hot and we have about 2 km to go.  We pass farms and it’s the first time I see turkeys.  They’re about the size of the chickens I buy at the store — definitely not the behemoths that are grown in North America.  I think the only attribute the turkeys share is their ugliness.  

As we get closer to the cave, the pathway changes to more of a trail going through the woods.  There is a person there who looks after the cave and Phonsy pays our entry fee.  The cave is free to Laotians.  Tham Kang Cave is known as a hiding place for about 18 family groups during the war.  It has a clean underground water source.  Phonsy explained that while the caves did provide shelter, the propaganda line was that anyone hiding in a cave had to be a communist (as opposed to just innocent people trying to find safety during bombing raids), so these caves became priority bombing targets.  Using spies or other means, the locations were revealed and many deaths resulted.  Phonsy told of a specific raid that occurred in a much larger cave where a targeted missile entered into the cave mouth and killed 431 people.  It’s a horrific loss of life.  

We arrive at Tham Kang Cave.  There are a few signs on the tree in front of the cave.  One of them reads “Tham Kang Cave, 15m In, Not Very Dark” and the other one reads “This Tree is the Only Local Tree to Survive Period of Bombing”.  I’m both amused and horrified.

The US practiced carpet bombing where bombs were dropped to inflict damage in every square inch of the target. Given that no trees survived except one, this was an area where carpet bombing must have occurred. 

There was a large stone near the opening of the cave which had been blown off the top of the cave by a bomb.  We climb the stairs to enter into the cave.  

Climbing the stairs to the entrance.

 

And enter into the cave

It’s not hard to imagine people hiding in this cave listening to American bombs. 

We don’t venture into the deepest parts of the cave as there is no railing.  There is a slow moving river in the cave.

Small pond outside of the cave.  This water flowed out of the cave and was was crystal clear.  We left the cave site and to retrace our steps back to the boat.  On the way, Phonsy had a butterfly land on his hand.  It flew away after a time but looped back to land on his hand again.  

The walk back to the river.  

We make it back to the boat at Muang Ngoi after dropping off the rented hat.  The locals ask Phonsy to make a sign for them in English advertising hat rentals.  Judith has come up with a new business line for the shop owner.  

To board the boat we navigate an uneven flight of concrete stairs and get on board to see the waterfall at Mon Kok.  The boat cruises up river to Ban Sob Kong, a village that’s the gateway to Mon Kok falls.  The river cruise was a welcome temperature drop from the walk back from the caves.  There’s some beautiful scenery along the way.  

At Ban Sob Kong, we pull up the to shore and scramble up a steep dirt bank to the village.  Phonsy negotiates another hat rental for Judith, this time it’s 10,000 kip (78 cents CDN) and off we go for the 45 minute hike.  The boat captain Lai, joins our group and helps carry our picnic lunch.  It’s pretty warm outside (31 degrees and humid) so it isn’t long before I’m dripping with sweat.  For the first 30 minutes of the trail, we’ve crossed through open fields in a farming valley.  It’s full of rice paddies that have been harvested.  The next portion is into steeper terrain but at least the tree canopy provides some respite from the sun.  We stop at a shaded picnic table alongside the path. 

 The trail has a few foot bridges to navigate.  A couple of them were long and very springy bamboo poles a few feet over the stream.  

At the picnic table, we decide to have some lunch and rest a bit. The picnic lunch consists of sticky rice, fish and eggs.  Everything was wrapped in banana leaves and we ate in an acceptable Lao style - with our fingers.  We had bananas for desert.  

At this point Judith decides to remain at the picnic table site while the rest of us go onto the waterfall.  All the leftover food is packaged up and we leave it with Judith while the rest of us take off.  Lai and Phonsy seem determined to give me a heart attack as they proceed on at a pace that’s way faster than what I’ve been used to.  This part of the trail is rough with lots of steep uphill and downhill sections.  Much of it is shaded with the overhead canopy.  

We did make it to the waterfall before I dropped dead from exhaustion.  By now I’m thinking I should have had more water this afternoon.  I know I should drink more to stay hydrated, but too much water means more frequent bathroom breaks and more bathrooms means an increased risk of squat toilet.  Clearly my preference is for regular western style toilets but since I’ve been doing these off the beaten track tours with Judith since 2015, I don’t fear the squat version as I’ve learned to use them due to necessity.  Having said that, I don’t like them and with the places we’ve been to, it’s typical that the only western style toilet you will see is in your hotel room. 

 

Fully flushed from hiking on a hot day.

Phonsy, Lai and I stay at the falls for a while.  I shoot some picture and videos.  It’s a beautiful spot with a nice swimming hole, but I didn’t bring my swim suit.

After a a few minutes, Phonsy asks Lai to check in on Judith and he’s gone in a flash.  Then Phonsy and I head back.  I notice that climbing up from the falls, my legs feel rubbery.  This does not bode well for the 45 minute walk back.   

We head back and find Judith where we left her.  We gather up the bags and head down.  Lai proceeds on without us to get the boat ready and probably because we’re too slow.  The refreshing cool of the waterfall is quickly forgotten in this heat especially on the flatter valley portion of the walk where there is no shade.  At the village the hat is returned.  By this time I’m so warm my eyelids are sweating.  

At the village we find a woman working a bellows for a forge. We’re not sure if she is the blacksmith or she’s just stoking the coals.  There is a small missile casing buried point down in the dirt and is in the foreground of the picture below.  The bottom end serves as an anvil - yet another use of military scrap.  

We make it back to the boat and I dip my hand into the water to help cool me down.  I make a commitment to stay more hydrated.

Happy amigos on the ride back.  There’s scenery and activity on the river that keeps us occupied on the trip back to Nong Khiaw.

The sun is setting behind the tall hills as we get back.  We get back to the hotel room and decide to have dinner at the restaurant.  We’re the only dinner guests.  The sunset view is a sweet end to the day.

We’re checking out of our hotel tomorrow, heading for Luang Probang.  It is an ancient royal city and is a UNESCO designated World Heritage site.  We need to be ready by 8:00 to get on our way.