4.. Nov 1st. Over to Vientiane, Laos
Today we needed to get ourselves packed and ready to get picked up by our driver, Raheem, and taken to the airport. The only problem we could see was that the restaurant only opened at 7:45 so our complementary breakfast only began 40 minutes before Raheem was scheduled to arrive. It would be tight turnaround or breakfast and checking out. Judith found out from the desk clerk that the restaurant is leased to an operator and that the late opening has caused enough of an issue with the hotel that it is looking into a opening a separate breakfast area for hotel guests. Maybe then you’d be able to get more than one small cup of coffee.
Breakfast menu. The design of the menu used a significant amount of the page to let you know about their 1 cup coffee or tea rule.
We were off to Vientiane, the capital of Laos, that morning. I had gone to bed late last night (blog writing) and found myself getting woken up by various noises including voices, doors opening and closing, footsteps in units nearby, vehicles going up the street, etc. so it wasn’t the best sleep I’d ever had. It is unusual for our hotel stays to be so noisy so I hope the next one is back to normal.
We waited outside the restaurant door before opening alongside another hotel guest and ordered as we entered before settling into our table. Fortunately, we didn’t need to wait long and we were finished with about 15 minutes to spare to get ready. Our room was located at the far end of the hotel lobby at the foot of the hill. Because the hotel had been built to follow the slope, I had to push my bag up the hallway. I was surprised how much of a workout that needed up being.
Narrow uphill hallway of the Scarlet Hotel.
Raheem was prompt. We were his second pickup that morning. The 20 minute drive took us through the Marina Coastal Expressway (MCE), one of the many expressways crisscrossing Singapore. It includes a 5 km long, 10 lane tunnel which goes under the ocean. We passed a few slower moving trucks with people riding in the open rear of the walled truck bed. Raheem explained these are workers who are forbidden to use public transport because their clothing is too dirty.
We arrived at Terminal 1 and started our boarding procedure. The carrier name was Scoot Airlines and is affiliated with Singapore Airlines. Check-in requires everyone to use their automated kiosk system and there was a field sized area with dozens of kiosks available—and there was no waiting required. Helpers are available to help guide people through the screens. Unfortunately the system did not recognize our flight reference number so we were directed to the next level of assistance at a typical check in counter but without the long queue. After we were checked in, I suggested that we go explore the Jewel at the airport, a spectacular vortex shaped indoor waterfall. But I could tell Judith wanted to clear through security and get to the gate, so we proceeded on, but not before I drank the can of coconut juice I had taken from our complementary hotel room bar so I could get through security.
We got to our gate without passing trough security. It turns out that security is decentralized and located within the individual gates. While we were waiting I was working on getting some walking steps in and saw a team of uniformed security officers going towards my gate and figured that teams of security officers are dispatched to gates as needed. I also knew it was time to finish my walk. Having security at each gate was a much better travel experience for customers, eliminating those long queues of security that are far away from the departure gates and taking out the anxiety of wondering if you’re ever going to make it there on time. It’s really quite brilliant.
The plane ride was uneventful. It was a tightly packed seating arrangement and Judith’s knees were up against the back of the seat in front of her. The person behind me must have been the same because I could tell whenever they shifted around… I was sitting in the middle seat and couldn’t see much but could listen to the commentary from the guy in the window seat in the row behind me who was quite good at describing what he saw when we were landing.
Clearing customs required an extra declaration besides having competed an “eVisa” form online before we left Canada. Just about everyone in our eVisa queue had to step out of the line to complete said form including us. After clearing customs with the additional documentation, we collected our bags and met Lai, our travel guide for Vientiane and Mr. Kuhn, our driver. We loaded into a Hyundai passenger van and set off for Salana Boutique Hotel to freshen up before we headed for the remainder of the day. The time difference here is one hour ahead of Singapore so we gained an hour to explore to explore the town.
The hotel is lovely with lots of wood furnishings, flooring and artwork. It’s right up my alley. Our room is more specious than our Singapore hotel so we’re not having to step around each other. Our guide Lai asked if we could be back down in the lobby in 10 minutes and Judith negotiated 15. We ended up taking slightly longer because we wanted to change our outfits to something cooler.
Our room. It’s spacious and well appointed
We’re picked up by our guide and driver for our afternoon tour. Mr Kuhn drove us a short distance to so that we could explore some nearby sights. First was the Presidential Palace viewed from the road because its not accessible to the pubic. It’s currently under renovation. It’s not inhabited; the king lives elsewhere, and the building is only used for special occasions.
Presidential Palace under construction. The picture is taken through the metal ornate gates.
The palace is located at start of the wide road looking down to Paxtuxai Monument. The monument was constructed in 1968 using funds provided by the US to expand the airport with a longer runway to facilitate operations for the Vietnam War. Apparently the funds were sent before an agreement was signed, so Laos decided to instead build this monument to honour those who fought the French for Laos independence.
This picture view is along Avenue Lane Xang, which was built by the French. The design of the road was made to resemble the Champs Élysées with the Monument in the middle. The Paxtutai Monument is visible at the far end.
Next up was the Si Saket Temple (Wat Si Saket) built in 1818. It is the oldest surviving Wat (temple) and has been kept in its original shape even though many other temples of similar age were destroyed by a Siam invasion in the early 1800’s. The Wat holds over 6,500 Buddha figures made predominately of bronze, stone and ceramic, In the centre of the grounds is a building that houses a 13th century Buddha. Cameras were not permitted inside the building. We were able to remove our shoes and hats to venture inside.
Rows upon rows of Buddha figures. In each of the many inserts behind the larger Buddhas were two smaller Buddha figures.
On the grounds was a couple in traditional dress. Our guide indicated that prior to a wedding, such photos are taken to be displayed at the wedding.
We crossed the street to enter another temple grounds. Known as HoPhraKeo Museum, (the Temple of the Emerald Buddha) it was built in the 15th century to house a 66 cm Buddha carved from a single jade stone. Except there was no Emerald Buddha as it was taken (stolen) to Siam (Thailand) by and installed there in 1779. Judith and I saw it displayed in Bangkok on a previous trip. Rumour has it that that’s not the real Emerald Buddha on display; that its being held in safekeeping and a fake one is on display.
HoPhraKeo is now being used as a museum of religious artifacts and cultural treasures. Various Buddhas dating back many centuries are on display on the terrace of the building.
We walk over to Chao Anouvong Park towards the Mekong River. There is a giant statue of Chao Anouvong who was the last monarch of the Kingdom of Vientiane and headed the Lao Rebellion, regarded as the point that Lao nationality began to take root and galvanize. He’s credited with the existence of Laos and is very revered. The statue was built in 2010 and has Anouvong standing with arm outstretched towards Thailand.
We took a river front stroll along the Mekong River. The roadway Quai Fa Noum that runs parallel with the Mekong River has been improved with a wide sidewalk and both the roadway and sidewalk seem to be popular places to walk or drive. We can see Thailand on the other side of the Mekong. Our guide Lai talked about global warming and the effect on the river. Long drought periods have caused sections of the river to dry to the point where you could walk across to Thailand. That seems pretty impossible from our position as the Mekong currently appears full and wide.
We cross the street and entered a popular market where most of the stalls sold clothing and electronics. The goods were all knock offs with lots of well known designer labels. We walked the entire length of the market and then turned around and came back through a different row of market stalls that were selling the same items that we had just seen. From there we walked towards our hotel. On our way we checked out several potential restaurants to have dinner. We said good night to Lai and confirmed arrangements to meet him tomorrow at 9:00am to continue our tour.
Market stalls.
We arrived back to our room to get ready for heading back out again for dinner. We decided to go to the Indian Restaurant about a block away. I decided on a vegetable curry with a Mango Lassi and Judith had a vegetable aloo with iced tea. We shared a giant roti and it was all so very good.
Sipping on drinks before copious amounts of food arrive. Judith’s iced tea is prepared with milk and she advises it’s very good.
We get back to the hotel after dinner and I’m too tired to write the day’s blog. I decide that sleep is in order.
G
Anouvong
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